Turnbull & Asser

Turnbull & Asser was established in 1885 by Reginald Turnbull and Ernest Asser at a time when Jermyn Street in St James's was already the established address for the finest ready-made shirtmakers in London. Through persistent quality and an unerring eye for cloth, the firm has maintained its position as the foremost name in English shirtmaking for over 130 years.

The house holds three royal warrants: as shirtmaker to King Charles III (held since his time as Prince of Wales), to the late Duke of Edinburgh, and to the late Queen Elizabeth II. The warrant to HRH The Prince of Wales was first granted in 1980 — a relationship that, at its best, represents the mutual esteem between craftsperson and connoisseur.

The Jermyn Street Tradition

Jermyn Street — running parallel to Piccadilly, connecting St James's Street with Regent Street — has been the address for English ready-made shirtmaking since the 17th century. The guild of shirtmakers that established itself here drew its clientele from the clubs of St James's, the great houses of the West End, and the officers of the regiments quartered nearby.

The tradition they developed was one of precision: a shirt made to exact measurements, in cloth of exceptional quality, finished by hand at the collar and cuffs. Turnbull & Asser's archive of some 15,000 individual client patterns — maintained in a system of leather-bound books that spans decades — is the physical record of this tradition.

The Shirts

The standard Turnbull & Asser shirt is made in the house's own workshops, with the collar and cuffs hand-stitched. The single-needle stitching — a technique that produces a finer, more precise seam than conventional double-needle machine stitching — is standard throughout. The buttonholes are worked by hand.

The house's signature is the rounded collar — specifically the T&A collar, with its seven-fold construction and distinctive roll. The seven-fold tie is also a Turnbull & Asser innovation, though it has since been widely copied.

Seven-fold collar: The fabric at the collar point is folded seven times before being hand-stitched, creating a structure of exceptional stiffness and retention. The collar maintains its shape without collar stiffeners and develops a characteristic set with wear.

The Cloth

Turnbull & Asser's cloth is sourced primarily from the finest English mills — Thomas Mason, Alumo, Albini — in a range that encompasses classic white and blue Sea Island cotton, checked and striped end-on-end weaves, silk and silk-blend weaves for formal occasions, and the house's distinctive patterns developed for the ready-to-wear collection.

The boldness of the pattern is a house characteristic: Turnbull & Asser shirts are not for men who wish to be invisible. The stripes are wider, the checks more pronounced, the colours more considered. This is shirt dressing as a positive statement of identity.

Made-to-Measure

The house's made-to-measure programme — available at the Jermyn Street flagship and international trunk shows — takes 21 measurements and works from a personal base pattern. The fit adjustment addresses collar circumference, sleeve length, body width through chest and waist, and cuff style. Minimum orders are typically six shirts.

FAQs

What is the price of a Turnbull & Asser shirt? Ready-to-wear shirts begin at approximately £295–350. Made-to-measure from approximately £400 per shirt.

What is the best collar style for a business setting? The house's own T&A collar in a medium spread is the most versatile for professional contexts — substantial enough to frame a tie knot properly, refined enough for formal occasions.