Cashmere

Cashmere is among the oldest luxury fibres known to European civilisation — prized by the courts of Persia, exported to Europe by Vasco da Gama's traders, and elevated to its present status as the default signifier of textile luxury. It is combed, not sheared: the fine undercoat of the Cashmere goat (Capra hircus), grown as insulation against the extreme cold of the Himalayan plateau, is separated by hand from the coarser outer guard hair in spring.

Where Cashmere Comes From

The finest cashmere originates in Mongolia and the Inner Mongolia region of China, where the extreme continental climate — temperatures ranging from -40°C in winter to +40°C in summer — drives the goat to grow a particularly fine, dense undercoat. Scottish producers such as Johnstons of Elgin and Hawick-based mills have historically sourced the finest Mongolian raw fibre and spun it in the Borders, creating the "Scottish cashmere" designation that remains a quality benchmark.

China now produces the majority of global cashmere volume, at varying quality levels. The premium end of Chinese cashmere production — particularly from Inner Mongolia — is comparable to the best Mongolian material.

Grading Cashmere

The key metric is fibre diameter. Grade A cashmere (the finest, used in luxury knitwear and tailoring fabrics) measures 14 to 15.5 microns. For context, this is finer than the finest merino wool (Super 120s, at 17.5 microns). Grade B and C cashmere, used in volume production, measures up to 19 microns — indistinguishable in warmth from good merino, but lacking the distinctive handle.

The length of the fibre also matters. Longer fibres (36 mm and above) spin into a more consistent, pilling-resistant yarn. Shorter fibres — common in mass-market production — pill more readily and produce a surface that deteriorates faster.

Properties

Warmth. A cashmere fibre provides approximately eight times the insulation of sheep's wool at the same weight. A cashmere sweater at 200 g can perform the thermal function of a woollen sweater at twice the weight.

Softness. The combination of fine diameter and natural crimp produces the characteristic handle of cashmere — a quality that is immediately apparent and that no synthetic fibre has satisfactorily replicated.

Drape. High-grade cashmere fabrics — used in the finest overcoats and suiting blends — have a fluid, weighty drape entirely different from crisp worsted wools.

Two-Ply vs. Single-Ply

Knitwear is typically classified by ply — the number of spun threads twisted together to form the yarn. Two-ply cashmere (two threads twisted together) is the minimum specification for a durable garment. One-ply is too fragile for anything beyond very occasional wear. The finest knitwear — from Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, or N.Peal — uses two- to four-ply yarn of Grade A fibre.

Care

Cashmere demands respect. Hand wash in cool water with a specialist detergent, or dry clean sparingly. Lay flat to dry — never hang, which distorts the knit. After each wearing, allow the garment to rest for at least 24 hours. Depill gently with a cashmere comb rather than a synthetic fabric shaver.

FAQs

Is "100% cashmere" always high quality? No. The grade of the fibre, its processing, and the construction of the garment determine quality. An inexpensive "100% cashmere" label may indicate Grade B or C fibre spun at low ply. Evaluate softness and weight in person before purchase.

Does cashmere pill? All cashmere pills initially — the surface fibres working free during the break-in period. This is not a quality defect; it is a characteristic of the fibre. Regular gentle combing removes the pills and reveals the smooth, lustrous surface beneath.