Super 120s Wool
A wool fabric classification indicating fibres of 18.5 microns or finer, producing a cloth of notable softness and lustre suitable for year-round tailoring.
The "Super" designation in wool fabric refers to the fineness of the wool fibre, measured in microns (millionths of a metre). The system was standardised by the International Wool Textile Organisation: Super 100s corresponds to fibres of 18.5 microns or finer, with each subsequent 10s increment representing a finer fibre of approximately 0.5 microns less.
Super 120s wool — fibres of 17.5 microns or finer — occupies a particularly useful position in the quality spectrum: fine enough to be genuinely luxurious in handle and appearance, yet robust enough for regular wear.
What "Super 120s" Actually Means
The number does not refer to thread count, weave density, or any measure of finished cloth quality. It refers solely to the raw fibre diameter. A Super 120s fabric is made from merino wool fibres of 17.5 microns or finer. These fine fibres produce a yarn that is softer against the skin, has higher lustre (reflecting more light), and drapes with more fluidity than coarser grades.
The finest Super 120s merino comes principally from Australia (Merino Superfine producers), New Zealand, and South Africa. It is processed primarily by mills in the Biella district of northern Italy — Loro Piana, Reda, Vitale Barberis Canonico — and in the Huddersfield region of Yorkshire.
Performance Characteristics
Softness. Super 120s does not itch. The threshold for skin sensitivity is approximately 20 microns; fibres below this bend under pressure rather than pricking the skin. Super 120s comfortably clears this threshold.
Drape. Fine fibres produce a more pliable yarn, which produces a fabric that moves with greater fluidity over the body. This is the quality that gives a well-cut Super 120s suit its characteristic elegance of movement.
Durability. Superior to coarser grades in softness but somewhat less durable than Super 100s. For a suit worn two to three times per week, Super 120s is entirely appropriate. The fibres are fine enough to show wear over time if the garment is worn daily without rotation.
Care. Fine wool requires more attentive care. Press with a damp cloth rather than direct iron contact, brush after each wearing to remove surface fibres, and store on a well-formed hanger to maintain shape.
Super 120s in Context: The Full Spectrum
| Grade | Fibre Diameter | Character | |-------|---------------|-----------| | Super 100s | ≤ 18.5 μm | Durable, appropriate for heavy use | | Super 120s | ≤ 17.5 μm | Balanced: soft, lustrous, wearable | | Super 150s | ≤ 16.5 μm | Very fine; dress occasions | | Super 180s+ | ≤ 15.5 μm | Exceptional fineness; handle with care |
Where to Find It
Super 120s is the working standard for serious luxury ready-to-wear. Houses such as Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Isaia build much of their core tailoring range around Super 120s and 130s cloths. It is also a common specification in mid-tier bespoke commissions where the client prioritises versatility over maximum luxury.
FAQs
Is higher always better? Not necessarily. Super 150s and above are more delicate and require more careful maintenance. For a working suit worn in a professional environment, Super 120s typically represents a more sensible specification than extreme fineness grades.
What weight should a Super 120s suit be? For year-round use in a temperate climate, 260–310 g/m² (8–10 oz) is appropriate. For summer or warm-climate use, 200–250 g/m² (6.5–8 oz) with an open weave construction.